Juergen Teller (b. 1964, Erlangen, Germany) is a celebrated fashion and fine-art photographer renowned for his intimate, arresting, and often ironic images. His work—whether self-portraits, celebrity campaigns, or everyday moments—is known for a raw emotional immediacy and a refusal to glamorize subjects or settings.
Camera Gear & Setup
Contax G2 with TLA‑200 Flash
For the majority of his early career, Teller shot analog exclusively using Contax G2 35mm rangefinder cameras, often carrying two at once for constant firing. He typically paired these with the on-camera Contax TLA‑200 flash, which produced the high-contrast, shadow-modeling light that became his visual signature.
I used the hell out of the silver Contax G2. The flash on it was fantastic
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| Contax G2 |
Multiple Bodies in Dual-Hand Stance
Teller famously held one Contax in each hand, firing in rapid alternating bursts to disarm and engage subjects. This method created an intense rhythm that helped freeze candid emotions and broke down barriers between photographer and subject.
Transition to Digital (Canon 5D series + iPhone)
After decades on film, Teller began adopting digital photography—starting around a shoot for a recipe book, when he realized autofocus and sharp capture were critical for client satisfaction. He gravitated toward the Canon 5D series with a 35mm lens, embracing the clarity without losing his distinctive aesthetic.
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| Canon Eos 5D |
He also began using the iPhone for personal projects, especially self-portraits and informal snapshots, calling it a liberating tool that bypassed his cinematic baggage.
Aesthetic & Shooting Philosophy
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Hard flash, raw emotion: Teller’s on-camera flash flattens contrast and sharpens texture, revealing honesty and vulnerability in his subjects—often exaggerated imperfections.
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Genre-bending honesty: His images blur fashion, celebrity, domestic, and personal experiences—whether shooting Kate Moss, Cindy Sherman, or himself—always grounded in authenticity and rawness.
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Spontaneity through repetition: Teller believes in shooting many photos, quickly. It loosens tension in his subjects and allows for unexpected moments to emerge.
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Evolving but constant: Despite digital adoption, Teller rejects tool fetishism: “The camera is just like my car: it gets me from A to B—I don’t have a fetish about cars,” he said
In His Words and Work
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Teller often includes himself in his photographs, embracing autobiographical imperfection and narrative consistency across decades of work.
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His campaigns for Marc Jacobs and collaborations with Céline, Vivienne Westwood, and other icons often subvert idealization, favoring personal humanity over perfection.
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Teller’s style has been exhibited internationally—Grand Palais Éphémère (2023) and the Venice Biennale—underscoring his impact on fashion, fine art, and photographic culture.
Key Takeaways
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Teller’s signature look originated from Contax G2 + direct on-camera flash, which shaped his unapologetically honest aesthetic.
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He carried multiple analog bodies, shooting in bursts to capture unguarded moments.
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Later embraced Canon digital gear, especially for editorial work, while retaining the authenticity his analog work imparted.
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He uses casual tools like the iPhone to further collapse distance and pretense between photographer and subject.
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For Teller, gear is secondary to intuition, presence, and visual sincerity
Final Thoughts
Juergen Teller shows us that photography can be personal and confrontational—using minimal yet deliberate tools. From dual Contax bodies firing flashes into the faces of fashion models and friends, to handheld digital and mobile photography, he's built an unmistakable aesthetic: blunt, humane, and compellingly real.
Books featuring Juergen Teller's work
Fashion Photography for America 1999-2016 : see it on Amazon
I need to Live : see it on Amazon
