August Sander: The Face of a Society
Published by Jerome D.
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Introduction
August Sander (1876–1964) is one of the most important portrait photographers in the history of the medium. His work is defined by an ambitious and systematic project: to document the people of Germany across all social classes during the early twentieth century.
Born in Herdorf in the German Empire, Sander began working in photography at a young age, initially assisting in a studio before eventually opening his own portrait business in Cologne. While commercial portraiture provided his livelihood, his true artistic focus was a long-term project he called People of the 20th Century — a vast typology of German society.
Sander’s aim was not to glorify individuals but to represent them as part of a broader social structure. Farmers, craftsmen, soldiers, artists, industrialists — each group was photographed with the same clarity and neutrality. His portraits are direct and unembellished, revealing both the individuality of the subject and their place within society.
His work was interrupted by the rise of the Nazi regime, which viewed his objective portrayal of German society as politically problematic. Many of his negatives were destroyed, and his book Face of Our Time (1929) was banned. Despite this, Sander continued working, and his photographs later became foundational to documentary and typological photography.
Today, Sander is recognized as a major influence on photographers such as Bernd and Hilla Becher and the Düsseldorf School.
Camera Gear Used by August Sander
Cameras
Large-format view cameras – Sander worked primarily with large-format view cameras mounted on tripods. These cameras used bellows focusing systems and ground-glass screens, allowing for precise control over composition and focus.
The large negative size provided exceptional detail, which was essential for Sander’s portraits. His intention was to create images that could withstand close examination, revealing textures in clothing, facial features and posture.
The use of a tripod and large-format camera also imposed a slower, more deliberate process. Subjects were required to remain still, contributing to the calm, composed quality of his portraits.
Lenses
Zeiss lenses (standard and portrait focal lengths) – Sander used high-quality lenses typical of German photographic equipment of the period, including lenses produced by Zeiss.
These lenses were designed to deliver sharpness and minimal distortion, ensuring that subjects were rendered clearly and without stylistic exaggeration.
The focal lengths he used were generally normal to slightly long, providing a natural perspective suitable for portraiture.
Film / Plates
Glass plates (later sheet film) – In the early part of his career, Sander worked with glass photographic plates, which were standard for large-format photography at the time.
Glass plates offered extremely high resolution, allowing Sander to capture fine details in his subjects’ appearance and clothing.
Later, as photographic technology evolved, he transitioned to sheet film while maintaining the same large-format workflow.
Technique & Style
August Sander’s photography is defined by its clarity, neutrality and systematic approach.
His portraits are typically straightforward: subjects are often positioned facing the camera, standing or seated, with minimal theatrical lighting or dramatic composition. This directness creates a sense of honesty and objectivity.
Sander avoided excessive stylistic effects. Instead, he allowed the subject’s clothing, posture and expression to convey meaning. A farmer stands differently from a banker; a craftsman presents himself differently from an artist. These distinctions form the basis of his typological project.
The backgrounds in his portraits are often simple — sometimes a studio setting, sometimes an outdoor environment related to the subject’s profession. In both cases, the goal is to provide context without distracting from the individual.
How to Imitate His Style in Post-Processing
Sander’s images are restrained and precise. Post-processing should reflect that simplicity.
Use clean black and white conversion
Avoid dramatic filters or stylisation.
Maintain full tonal range
Ensure that both shadows and highlights retain detail.
Preserve sharpness
Clarity is essential to reveal textures and facial details.
Avoid heavy contrast
Sander’s images are balanced rather than harsh.
Keep the image natural
The goal is accurate representation, not artistic exaggeration.
How to Shoot Like August Sander
Photograph people within their context
Subjects should reflect their profession or social role.
Use simple compositions
Avoid unnecessary visual elements.
Work methodically
Sander’s project was systematic, not spontaneous.
Engage directly with subjects
A clear, frontal approach creates a strong connection.
Focus on detail
Clothing, posture and expression all contribute to meaning.
Legacy
August Sander’s work has had a profound influence on documentary and portrait photography.
His project People of the 20th Century introduced a new way of thinking about photography as a tool for social analysis. By organizing portraits into categories, he created a visual map of society.
His influence can be seen in the work of the Bechers, as well as in contemporary photographic practices that explore typology, identity and social structure.
Today, his photographs are held in major museum collections worldwide, including institutions in Germany, Europe and the United States.
Books by and Featuring August Sander
Face of Our Time (1929) – Sander’s most famous publication, presenting a selection of his portraits of German society.
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| see it on Amazon |
People of the 20th Century (multiple volumes) – The comprehensive presentation of his life’s work, published posthumously.
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| see it on Amazon |
August Sander (Taschen) – A widely available monograph covering his major photographic series.
Conclusion
August Sander’s photography represents one of the most ambitious documentary projects ever undertaken. Through the use of large-format cameras, precise technique and a systematic approach, he created a visual record of an entire society.
His work demonstrates that photography can be both objective and deeply revealing — capturing not only how people look, but how they exist within the structures of their time.