William Klein

William Klein: The Rebel Who Redefined Street Photography

Introduction

William Klein (1928–2022) was an American-French photographer and filmmaker whose raw, uncompromising style revolutionized street and fashion photography. Known for his high-contrast, grainy, and often chaotic images, Klein broke the rules of traditional photography, embracing blur, distortion, and bold compositions. His work captured the energy and complexity of urban life, particularly in his iconic books like Life Is Good & Good for You in New York (1956) and his city-focused projects in Rome, Moscow, and Tokyo. Klein’s fearless approach and innovative techniques continue to inspire photographers to push the boundaries of the medium.

Camera Gear Used by William Klein

Cameras

Leica IIIf – Borrowed from Henri Cartier-Bresson, this was Klein’s primary camera for his groundbreaking New York street photography in the mid-1950s.

Leica IIIf

Leica M2 – Used for its compactness and quiet operation, ideal for candid street shooting.

Leica M2

Leica R6.2 – A later model Klein used for its versatility and durability.

Leica R6.2

Pentax 6x7 – A medium-format SLR favored for its larger film size, allowing for more detail and tonal range in his urban landscapes.

Pentax 6x7

Lenses

28mm wide-angle lens – Klein’s most-used focal length, enabling dynamic, immersive compositions and exaggerated perspectives.
21mm–35mm zoom lens – Used for flexibility in framing, especially in tight urban spaces.
Fisheye lens – Employed for its extreme wide-angle and distorted perspective, perfect for Klein’s offbeat, expressionistic style.
Telephoto lens – Occasionally used to isolate subjects and capture unique moments amid urban chaos.

Film & Printing

Slow, high-contrast black-and-white film – Klein embraced grain and high contrast, qualities often considered flaws, to create his signature raw aesthetic.
Ilford baryta paper – Used for printing, chosen for its ability to render deep blacks and rich tonal range, under the guidance of his printer Pierre-Louis Denis.

Technique & Style

William Klein’s style was defined by grain, blur, high contrast, and unpredictable framing. He rejected traditional notions of "good" photography, instead embracing the chaos and energy of the street. His images often feature confrontational close-ups, dramatic angles, and a sense of motion, capturing the raw essence of urban life. Klein’s use of wide-angle lenses and flash created a signature look that was both immersive and provocative, challenging viewers to see the world differently.

How to Imitate His Style in Post Production

You can use Pixlr, a really powerful and cost-effective software, to emulate Klein’s signature look. Pixlr offers advanced editing tools, an intuitive interface, and cloud-based accessibility, making it ideal for both beginners and professionals. To recreate Klein’s style:

Convert your image to black and white and increase grain to mimic the raw, textured quality of his film.
Boost contrast dramatically, pushing shadows to deep black and highlights to bright white for a high-contrast effect.
Use the blur tool selectively to create a sense of motion or focus, replicating Klein’s embrace of imperfection.
Crop aggressively or tilt the horizon to achieve his signature "cock-eyed" framing.
Add a subtle vignette to draw attention to the center of the frame, enhancing the dramatic feel of his street scenes.

How to Shoot Like William Klein

Shoot from the hip – Klein often shot quickly and intuitively, embracing spontaneity and the unexpected.
Use a wide-angle lens – A 28mm or wider lens will help you capture the dynamic, immersive perspectives Klein favored.
Embrace grain and blur – Don’t shy away from high ISO or slow shutter speeds; Klein saw these as part of the image’s character.
Get close to your subjects – Klein’s confrontational style often involved shooting at close range, even in crowded or chaotic environments.
Experiment with flash – Use a flash to freeze motion and add drama, especially in low-light or indoor settings.

Legacy

William Klein’s influence on photography is profound. His rebellious spirit and innovative techniques challenged the conventions of the medium, paving the way for generations of street and fashion photographers. Klein’s work transcended photography, extending into filmmaking, graphic design, and painting, making him a true multidisciplinary artist. His books, exhibitions, and commercial work continue to be celebrated for their boldness, originality, and uncompromising vision.

Books Featuring William Klein’s Work

Life Is Good & Good for You in New York (1956) – Klein’s groundbreaking debut, a raw and energetic portrait of his hometown.
Rome: The City and Its People (1959) – A vibrant exploration of Rome’s streets and culture.

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Tokyo (1964) – Captures the energy and contrast of 1960s Tokyo, blending tradition and modernity.
Moscow (1964) – A unique perspective on Soviet life, filled with Klein’s signature dynamism.
William Klein: YES (2022) – A comprehensive retrospective of his career, spanning photography, film, and design.